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		<title>Gringa en Guate</title>
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		<title>Adios</title>
		<link>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/09/05/adios/</link>
		<comments>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/09/05/adios/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 05 Sep 2009 23:47:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lauren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel, Central America, Guatemala]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/09/05/adios</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[It’s wind-down time for me, sad. I am satisfied with how the trip panned out. The beginning was a little rough—I remember feeling like 10 weeks was way too many, but after I reached 3 weeks, 10 seemed just fine. The research, while frustrating at times, was a great experience and I think we accomplished [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=laurenjow.wordpress.com&amp;blog=10189536&amp;post=35&amp;subd=laurenjow&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><!--StartFragment-->
<p class="MsoNormal">It’s wind-down time for me, sad. I am satisfied with how the trip panned out. The beginning was a little rough—I remember feeling like 10 weeks was way too many, but after I reached 3 weeks, 10 seemed just fine. The research, while frustrating at times, was a great experience and I think we accomplished all our tasks (understand the region, talk to people, figure out what sorts of banking exists, help Marco Tulio with his stoves, make some business contacts). I will be interested to return in a couple years and see what has developed in terms of MAPLE’s presence here. My Spanish has gone from nearly nothing to being efficient, if not ridden with grammatical mistakes. I’ve gotten to see almost all the geographical regions and sites, apart from Tikal and more of Cóban.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">And I’ve had the best experience with this family. In past couple weeks, I’ve gotten a lot closer to the cousins and am just trying to soak them in because I know that the next time I come back, a lot will have changed. Of course that’s true of people in general—they grow up, it’s just a fact of life, but here, the growing up happens a lot sooner and the next time I visit, a lot of the kids will be in college or married, and there will be more babies.<span>  </span>Edgar, who is 16 and is kind of my buddy, won’t be as silly or carefree as he is now. He’ll learn what stress is and will be busy working on engineering projects in the capitol, rather than playing 35097 games of spoons with me and pestering me about my novio from Parque Central (which I don’t have). And if her health continues to decline, there’s a good chance that Mama Mari won’t be around, and I can’t even picture what the family would be like without the grandma, nor can I imagine the grandpa without her. Fortunately, all the aunts and uncles won’t change much because they’re all at a pretty stable point in their lives, and the little kids will just be a little bit bigger, but I’m closest with the high school crew and they’re the ones who will be most different. Big change happens at the same age in the US, but college seems a lot more enjoyable in the States (here it’s like a full-time job; mindset and attitude seem to change from being light-hearted to being serious all time), and I’m not too worried that Molly will be finding a husband and settling down any time soon (although Grandma Frank would smile upon her from “Cloud 9” if she did). There&#8217;s a good chance that these little guys will act more like adults than I will the next time I see them, and they&#8217;re already like 4 years younger. So yes, saying goodbye to the kids who won’t be kids much longer will be the hardest part of leaving. I guess if I ever decide to have some of my own, I should get them from another country or because usually I am not this sentimental over children.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">On a lighter note, I’m ready for a hot shower, a roof that isn’t tin (hard to sleep in the rain), mornings without roosters, a sewer system that allows toilet paper to be flushed, to wear something besides the three outfits I’ve been cycling through, to use ice cubes, to have more control over my stomach and diet, and to breath the air of a country that has regulates emissions.  It will also be nice to see family and simply be at my house because I’ve only been there for like 2 nights of the past 5 months. And I’m surprised to say it, though I suppose it’s a good thing…I’m really looking forward to going back to Oregon, to school, and to being with my friends (although I’m sure I’ll take like 2 weeks to get over the excitement and back into the rainy routine).</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">I need to buy books, rearrange my entire schedule, and figure out what to do with my life (or the next two years of it), and all those thoughts make me want to stay here for a lot longer, but 2.5 months is enough time to get to know a small country and I think I did a pretty thorough job of it, so I guess it’s time to get back on the grind and face those responsibilities <span style="font-family:Wingdings;"><span>J</span></span>.</p>
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		<title>Caving and Jumping</title>
		<link>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/09/01/caving-and-jumping/</link>
		<comments>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/09/01/caving-and-jumping/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Sep 2009 22:08:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lauren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel, Central America, Guatemala]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/09/01/caving-and-jumping</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[ladder next to waterfall lookout point over semuc chamey it was a very steep trip up there too bad that&#8217;s not me, but i also jumped Saturday was the best day ever. I’ve had my fair share of adrenaline adventures, but never as many concentrated into a single day. Semuc Chamey and the Caves of [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=laurenjow.wordpress.com&amp;blog=10189536&amp;post=34&amp;subd=laurenjow&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/dscn9393.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/dscn9393.jpg?w=225" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">ladder next to waterfall</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/dscn9381.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/dscn9381.jpg?w=225" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/dscn9414.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/dscn9414.jpg?w=225" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/mg_1380.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/mg_1380.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">lookout point over semuc chamey</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/img_1364.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/img_1364.jpg?w=200" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/mg_1386.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/mg_1386.jpg?w=200" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">it was a very steep trip up there</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/mg_1271.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/09/mg_1271.jpg?w=200" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">too bad that&#8217;s not me, but i also jumped</div>
<p><!--StartFragment-->
<p class="MsoNormal">Saturday was the best day ever. I’ve had my fair share of adrenaline adventures, but never as many concentrated into a single day. Semuc Chamey and the Caves of Lanquín have been my most-anticipated destination from Day 1, and the trip went beyond expectations. After assuming a cozy position on an eight-hour shuttle, I was seriously considering the decision to go, but it was totally worth being sandwiched between the driver, the stick shift, and the largest Guatemalan man I’ve ever seen (most are very tiny, but this guy must have eaten two of his amigos or something). I had to put my arms up and hold onto the overhead storage compartment because a) Guatemalan Giganticus was all up in my bidnezz and b) because much of it was a dirt/gravel road and it was dark outside, so we hit all the potholes. At one point, we stopped in an alley with only a church in visible operation and were told we had 20 minutes to find and eat dinner. Super. Since the shuttle driver disappeared, leaving our van with lights on, doors unlocked, and a massive pile of luggage on the roof rack, another guy and I decided we’d better stay with the van and I had my second Saltine dinner of the Great Guatemalan Adventure. It’s the economical choice at 50 cents for 48 crackers. Mind you, this was the first trip I’ve signed up for through an actual travel agency, and well&#8230;it wasn’t much different from figuring everything out myself.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">FINALLY, we arrived at the hostel. The only downside was the Brahva Girls who had picked that night to grace the bar with their presence atop the tables. So much for a quiet sleeping environment—I think I prefer the rooster.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">However, Saturday made up for all discomforts and inconveniences. Everything was awesome, including our tour guide (and not only because his God-given name was Elvis). It began as sort of a jungle safari in a pick-up truck that took us to Grutas Rey Marcos, which are caves that go more than a kilometer into the earth. Good Karma comes to those who ride 8 hours with their hands above their head, and I was the only one who got to ride inside the pick-up. Everyone endured a long, windy, rocky ride in the bed. (This was especially satisfying because we got stuck with the whiniest group of British girls in the world—they caused us to leave an hour late because they wanted to eat breakfast and woke up late, then continued to do other annoying things all day, so I rather enjoyed seeing them bumping along in the truck bed, messing up their hair, etc.).</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">The caves were amaaaazing. At home, you would absolutely never be allowed to do anything like the “tour” we did because there were way too many things that would be considered liability issues. I did sign in before we went into the caves, but it was just a record book, not a release statement. The only thing close to a caution sign was a piece of carved wood that said entrance was prohibited without a tour guide. For Guatemala, this carries a considerable amount of significance because really, you can almost always do whatever you want, with whomever you want, whenever and wherever you want around here.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">So Elvis handed us each a candlestick and off we went. The caves were filled with water, and from step to step, there was no way to guess whether you’d be wading through a friendly puddle or treading water. We swam a lot of the way, which was fun apart from encounters with rocks that jetted out underwater. At some points, it was clam, but in other areas there was a current because there were two waterfalls inside the caves and each had a considerable amount of force. Three times, we climbed up metal ladders that were suspended by rope. One was sloped diagonally against a rock, leading to a section whose entrance was tunnel-like and only a little wider than a crawl hole. Climbing the ladder through that was a little tricky because natural tendency is to arch your back on a ladder—especially a diagonal one, but because of the narrow space, a slithering movement was the way to go (Guess those two days of only slithering when I was a kid paid off, huh mom?) Another ladder was extra long and was positioned less than an arm’s reach from a waterfall. That was challenging because it was dark, slippery, loud, and water was flying in our faces. The candles kept going out, and we were an hour’s distance into the caves, so it was pitch dark. And it wasn’t a one-at-a-time situation up the ladders, it was more like a ‘the-guy-before-me-could-easily-kick-my-face-oops-I’m-holding-fire-better-not-put-it-that-close-to-my-face-or-his-feet-gee-I-sure-wish-I-could-use-both-hands’ climb. At the top of the second one, we had to step over the top of the waterfall by navigating metal bars with our feet and overhead ropes with our hands. More slipping and swimming (much of it was really easy, but I’m excluding the plain sections), then the scariest part, a small ledge where you could climb up and jump off into a little pool that was perhaps 15-20 feet wide. I had to do it because jumping off a cliff into a pool while inside a cave is not a very common opportunity, but I was rather nervous because of the size of the landing space. I’d also like to point out that when we signed up for this activity, they didn’t mention water, proper footwear, or the fact that the ability to swim was a necessity (no life jackets or guards in sight).</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">Next we went for a float on the river. Cue lame British girls. “Oh my GOD! I don’t know if we can do this. Maybe we’ll just meet you downstream. We’ve never done this before! How do we use these (inner tubes—pretty self-explanatory)? How do we get into them? How do we get out of them? How do we steer? Is that water fast? How long do we have to do it? WAIT—do we have to walk back afterwards!? How far will it be? Is it uphill?”. A few of us used the rope swing while Dumb and Dumber were measuring the likelihood of death by inner tube and after about 20 minutes of deliberation, they finally decided to risk their lives on the ominous river, moving at about 4 mph. They held hands the entire way.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">The most frightening part of the day came after the river float—the option to jump off a 33 foot-high-bridge. Again, I had to do it, but if the guy who jumped with me hadn’t counted us off, I’d probably still be up there. Dealing with the current during the swim to shore was the hardest part. I’m disappointed because the guy who I asked to take a picture completely missed the idea and all I have are blurry shots of me swimming and I am about as big as an ant.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">Later, we were let free to roam in Semuc Champey National Park, which was lovely. It’s known for it’s clear, tiered pools and I suspect there’s some unusual geographical history behind their formation, but I was too lazy to work through the literature on the signs. On the other side of the pools, there is a river that runs underground beneath them with a huuuge amount of force. I saw pictures, but didn’t have time to get over there…next time. Someone fell in 4 years ago and died instantly (no guardrails, but yes lifeguards because it’s a national park).</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">Eventually, we headed back to the hostel and naturally those girls had been waiting in the truck for a while so that they wouldn’t have to ride in the bed of the truck like before. There were no table dancers Saturday night, dinner was delicious, and there were only a few cockroaches creeping in my locker. Not bad. Everyone needs to go do that trip before they get too old and stiff. I can now return home satisfied. </p>
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		<title>Aww</title>
		<link>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/26/aww/</link>
		<comments>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/26/aww/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:29:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lauren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel, Central America, Guatemala]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/26/aww</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The word “cute” is a pretty weak adjective; I try to avoid using it when I write. In fact, I&#8217;m cringing because I have no choice but to describe yesterday as a cute day. Yes, a cute day. I&#8217;ve never said that before (thankfully), but it’s true. It was just one cute thing to the [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=laurenjow.wordpress.com&amp;blog=10189536&amp;post=33&amp;subd=laurenjow&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><!--StartFragment-->
<p class="MsoNormal">The word “cute” is a pretty weak adjective; I try to avoid using it when I write. In fact, I&#8217;m cringing because I have no choice but to describe yesterday as a cute day. Yes, a cute day. I&#8217;ve never said that before (thankfully), but it’s true. It was just one cute thing to the next. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">To begin with, my host mom had a meeting all day, so she wasn’t around this to make breakfast this morning. Last night, I assured her that it would be no problem for me to pour a bowl of cereal and find a banana to eat (there are probably 5 boxes of cornflakes and 30 bananas in the kitchen). I might even be capable of frying my own egg. But God forbid I lift a finger in the kitchen—wouldn’t want to overexert myself or I might need to take yet another descansa. Thus, when I woke up, Ximena, the 4-year-old cousin from next door, literally took my hand and led me to her house (an entire 6 feet away, since our houses share a wall), where her mom had pancakes and Co-Co Puffs waiting (nothin’ like some processed sugar to start your day). </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">I also had lunch at their house—same routine. I don’t know why they were so excited for me to eat there (I see them daily), but Ximena and Nicole (her little sister) acted like they were dining with Hannah Monana or someone of equal childlike appeal because they could barely focus long enough to get their rice from their plates to their mouths. Ximena actually got up and danced, mid-meal. There was some salsa in a bottle on the table and I tried to use it, but it turned out to be empty—obviously not big deal. I even tried to be discrete about it because I knew they would then discuss the history of the empty salsa (just how things go here). But oh no, they noticed, and well…better phone next door (more like yell loudly, since remember, we share a wall) because Lauren tried to use the salsa and there wasn’t any, so now we better find some for her or what…she might have to eat breaded green beans without it!? We couldn&#8217;t have that. After a couple minutes, the 5-year-old next door crawled through the window with a bottle of Schriracha, “Tengo salsa!!” Now that’s service.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">Next, I went to the park to read and nap. The nap was was brief because I had a strange feeling that I was being watched, and wouldn’t you know it, when I opened my eyes, 6 little girls holding hands and dressed in their huipils and cortes were hovering over my bench, giggling. “Wat<span>   </span>iz<span>   </span>yor<span>   </span>name?” they asked. Adorable…and probably the only English they knew. They only stayed long enough to tell me their names and ask what I was reading, but occurrences like this are what will make me miss Guatemala. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been to that park or walked around these streets over the past 2 months, but they were the first people to talk to me apart from a “buenas días” or the smooching sounds and obnoxious questions I get from the tuk-tuk drivers who inconveniently station themselves before the park entrance, so it was something to remember.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">While I was out, a package arrived for me, but in case I managed to get inside my room without noticing the big box blocking the entrance, Papa Cristóbal had left a note on the door in HUGE capital letters and arrow pointing to the floor, indicating that indeed, there was mail. Inside, my mom packed some knick-knacks for the kids and some supplies for me to make sushi with the family. First of all, you’ve never seen a kid so enthusiastic about beach ball; I think we played with it for a<span>  </span>solid 3 hours today. It has a smiley face printed on it, so Rodrigo has named it “Sneha” because they used to call her Smiley. He spent the evening alternating between kicking Sneha around the yard, then bathing the ball in their laundry pool (which is huge, so floating a beach ball around in it is a game in and of itself when you&#8217;re 5). Turns out he is also a fan of the Jelly Bellies (“Oooh! Deliciooooso!”) and pretended to feed half of his to Sneha the beach ball. There was lip-gloss for the girls, the youngest of which now has it on her lips, cheeks, and forehead, as well as a decent quantity in her stomach. I didn’t pull out all the stops yet and still have more treats for them in what they call the “Caja de Secretos”.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">Before dinner, I was laying in a chair, reading, and positioned with my head on the armrest and my hair hanging over the edge—the perfect height for Ximena and Rodrigo to &#8220;braid&#8221; it. You don&#8217;t know fun (or pain) until 4 to 5-year-olds fist clumps of your hair, hold it up, then twirl their entire bodies while still clinging to it (as if the hair were the hand of a male dancer and you were the girl doing a spin beneath it). Once I managed to escape that, I went to hang out with the teenage boy cousins, who were in Edgar’s room…dancing to “My Humps”.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">Earlier, they had seen the chopsticks that mom sent to use for the sushi and they wanted to practice at dinner. It’s always funny to watch someone use them for the first time. They caught on, more or less, then Edgar announced, “Vamos a atrapar mosques con ellos!” as he pinched the air (we’re going to trap flies with them). Luckily, there were no flies so they resorted to attempting to pick up dried black beans, which was probably the most stereotypically Guatemalan thing I could have imagined being done with chopsticks. Oh, and for the first time, we had dessert, which was bubble gum flavored J-ELLO.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">Me: How do you said this (J-ELLO) in Spanish?</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Alvero: Gelatíno (pronounced yel-la-tee-no).</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Edgar: Y como se llama en Inglés? (What is it called in English?)</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Me: Je-lo.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Alvero: Pero ‘ye-lo’ es como amarillo. (But ‘ye-l<span style="font-family:Symbol;"><span>`</span></span>o’ is like ‘yellow’).</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Me: well…yes…but ‘<i>jjjj</i><span style="font-style:normal;">e- l</span>o’ is different than ‘<i>yyyy</i><span style="font-style:normal;">e-l</span>o’.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Them: (blank stares).</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The Spanish ‘j’ is pronounced as a ‘y,’ which is simple enough, but oddly, they either hear ‘j’ as ‘y’ or else automatically translate and pronounce it as such, so the conversation was really going nowhere.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">The most anticipated things in the package were the movies, which are actually professional copies that you buy at Wal-Mart, 3 for 10 or something like that. These are a real luxury. For one, some of them even have the option of audio in Spanish. And two, they weren’t taped on a personal camcorder in a theatre during the big screen showing, so nobody’s shadow eerily moves across the frame as you watch it. After dinner, a group gathered downstairs to watch a movie. It was a production. They brought a TV from someone’s bedroom, got the DVD player from next door, went out to buy popcorn, and<span>  </span>a cousin from across town even drove over. And then…&#8221;No puede leer copias originales!” The DVD player couldn’t read original copies, only bootleg ones. Naturally. Fortunately, there were 4 families present and one of them had a DVD player with more advanced capabilities, so after much ado, we were in business. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> On a final note, reconsider before telling a 70-year-old Evangelical Christian woman that you&#8217;re not religious. All this time, I&#8217;ve thought they liked Sneha better, but well&#8230;she&#8217;s Hindu and even though I don&#8217;t go to church, at least I don&#8217;t have monkey and elephant gods (she actually said as much). I decided to agree with her when she said &#8220;But you know you&#8217;re a child of God, whose in the sky. He gave you your heart. And he created this earth, the universe, and Heaven. You know that, right?&#8221; Usually I hate getting grilled about church stuff (&#8220;There aren&#8217;t churches where you live? Oh, there are&#8230;so why don&#8217;t you go? Maybe when you go home, you could just TRY going to one? What do you do when you have problems? When you&#8217;re sick? When it&#8217;s La Navidad? Día de Gracias? When the devil arrives to eat you (kidding)&#8221;) but it was more amusing than annoying.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Hope you enjoyed, I&#8217;m out.</p>
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		<title>Collections of Memories</title>
		<link>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/24/collections-of-memories/</link>
		<comments>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/24/collections-of-memories/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2009 22:06:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lauren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel, Central America, Guatemala]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/24/collections-of-memories</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[At the insistence of our host family. They show this to people like you might show someone a picture of yourself and&#8230;say, Obama or maybe Madonna or Michael Jackson. Learning about selling wood. Lots.  This is Marco Tulio, who has been helping us while we&#8217;ve been here. He likes to tease and bother me all [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=laurenjow.wordpress.com&amp;blog=10189536&amp;post=32&amp;subd=laurenjow&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/img_0252.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/img_0252.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">At the insistence of our host family. They show this to people like you might show someone a picture of yourself and&#8230;say, Obama or maybe Madonna or Michael Jackson.</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/img_0220.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/img_0220.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Learning about selling wood. Lots. </div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/dsc00808.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/dsc00808.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">This is Marco Tulio, who has been helping us while we&#8217;ve been here. He likes to tease and bother me all the time. That puppy died, sadly. </div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/mg_0876.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/mg_0876.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Tell me he&#8217;s not the cutest kid ever.</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/mg_0995.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/mg_0995.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Rodrigo: &#8220;¡Tengo un idéa! ¡Tengo un idéa!&#8221; </div>
<div style="text-align:center;"></div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/mg_0736.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/mg_0736.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div>
<div style="text-align:center;">A very cute grandpa</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/img_0821.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/img_0821.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>
<div>
<div style="text-align:center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,238);text-decoration:underline;">Sneha&#8217;s send-off</span></div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/mg_0612.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/mg_0612.jpg?w=200" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Some fancy church thing. I will not miss this church and all its music and bell ringing ruckus.</div>
<p><!--StartFragment-->
<p class="MsoNormal">I usually try to organize and connect my thoughts, but this post is a collection of stories, sort of out of order and unrelated. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Sneha&#8217;s departure was  unexpectedly elaborate, with a dinner consisting of extending family, balloons, speeches/prayers, special potato tamales, a sleepover, and lots of presents (every sort of touristy trinket you could imagine, all of which say “GUATEMALA” on them). I bet they wished I were leaving at the same time so they don’t have to go through all the hoopla again in two weeks.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">On her last night here, we walked to a cousin&#8217;s house that we&#8217;ve never been to before. The girl, Ebony (No, she&#8217;s not black) is 13 and her brother is 21. He&#8217;s married and has a baby, Bladmere&#8230;Bladdy, for short (No, he&#8217;s not Russian. Yes, it&#8217;s spelled with a B, rather than a V.), who is one and a half.  We sat and talked to his wife (she&#8217;s 20) for awhile. They began dating at 14 and got married at 18. They live with his family and absolutely their entire life is confined to one smallish bedroom (clothes, double bed for them and their baby, computer, tv, his cycling gear, baby&#8217;s high chair, cooking stove, fridge, etc.). They aren&#8217;t poor by Guatemalan standards, but all I could think about was that we were the same age and at such different places in life. Here, it&#8217;s common to have a kid at their age or earlier, but usually when I think about it, it&#8217;s more like a separate us and them situation and this time it was easier to compare because they are relatives and I see them often. It was a strange feeling. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The other day while we were doing interviews, a tiny little boy looked at me&#8230;stared for a few seconds, then started yelling, &#8220;GRINGA! GRINNNNGGGGAAA!&#8221; over and over. All his friends stopped playing in the street and came chasing after us like in a movie. I know that happens a lot in some countries, but around these parts, there are a lot of white people and since I have dark hair and my skin is relatively dark right now, I&#8217;m not that exciting to most kids. I didn&#8217;t have a bag or anything with me, so they weren&#8217;t after money. They were just enthusiastic.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">Today, I didn’t really have anything to do. I face painted monos and iguanas on the arms of little cousins, learned the names of 239082 Guatemalan fruits, ate 4 bananas, and looked at my legs for a while—considering the pluses and minuses of shaving them. I decided not to. My main project, though, was updating and syncing my iTunes account with my iPod. For most people, this would probably take 30 minutes, but most people title their music correctly and their iPod and iTunes are identical. Unfortunately, that was not my situation. I had music on my iTunes account that wasn’t on my iPod, music from about seven friends’ iTunes accounts on my iPod, but not on my iTunes, Christmas music in my Camp Songs playlist, and probably 15% of my 5137 songs were duplicates or mislabeled. But, after six hours of organizing, everything looks beautiful. Everyone can appreciate a well organized music collection. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">Yesterday, I gave the cousins some American music. Apparently, Guatemalan and American tweens share the appeal for crap rap and emo music, so I loaded them up with Sean Kingston, Sean Paul, T-Pain, Fall Out Boy, The Ataris, Linkin Park, Yellowcard, so on and so forth… I might have slipped some ABBA, Spice Girls, Aqua, and a few others because they don’t recognize the difference or the lyrics and the thought of them singing and doing their awkward middle-high school-boy-dances to these songs is amusing.<span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Yesterday was also super church Sunday and my little 4 year old cousin came running around the corner in a dress shirt, his hair side parted and gelled, and reeking of cologne. To top it off, he was yelling &#8220;guapo! guapo! guapo!&#8221; It was adorable. On the note of religion and holiness, we stole our cousins phone and read his texts (not secretly, just playing around in front of him). All of them were chain texts to/from friends relating to God. He&#8217;s 16!</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>My grandma is still sick. I think it&#8217;s something serious and involves her colon. Anyways, for the past week, people have been in and out of her room doing the loudest sreaming/crying prayers I&#8217;ve yet to hear. They say things about the blood of the devil, the hands of Jesus Christ, and they tell the illness not to come back in this life. Sometimes, prayers last for 3 hours. I called my dad so he could listen to part of a session, and people on the streets stare strangely at our house when they walk by (you can hear it from everywhere). </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">Oh, and on Saturday I was sooo excited to be invited to a birthday celebration and night out in Antigua with Eduardo and his friends (who toured us around a university a few weeks ago). However, they got into the city late (read, 8:30 pm) and my host family said it was too peligroso to go out, so I had to stay home. I felt like I was in seventh grade. It was quite disappointing.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I did promise a book review for this post, but I decided it was boring (the report, not the book), so I&#8217;ll save it for when I have nothing to say. And so ends my rambling. I&#8217;ll aim for coherence next time.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"></p>
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		<title>Reallllyyyy Long!</title>
		<link>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/19/reallllyyyy-long/</link>
		<comments>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/19/reallllyyyy-long/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 19 Aug 2009 17:18:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lauren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel, Central America, Guatemala]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Friday BBQ and dress up Hostel staff/girls open-air bunk for $3 Me floating in San Marcos Typical footpath in San Pedro. In San Marcos, they were all corn. Dusk in Santa Cruz More hostel time Post interview with Margarita La Iguana Perdida family dining area This girl was so excited to find these sparkly shoes [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=laurenjow.wordpress.com&amp;blog=10189536&amp;post=31&amp;subd=laurenjow&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/6.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/6.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Friday BBQ and dress up</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/7.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/7.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Hostel staff/girls</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/91.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/91.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">open-air bunk for $3</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/101.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/101.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Me floating in San Marcos</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/12.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/12.jpg?w=200" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Typical footpath in San Pedro. In San Marcos, they were all corn.</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/51.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/51.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Dusk in Santa Cruz</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/31.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/31.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">More hostel time</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/21.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/21.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div>
<div style="text-align:center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,238);text-decoration:underline;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align:center;">Post interview with Margarita</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/11.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/11.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">La Iguana Perdida family dining area</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/4.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/4.jpg?w=200" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">This girl was so excited to find these sparkly shoes and matching red and pink gemmed bobbles</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/13.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/13.jpg?w=200" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Distributing shoes, soap, hair stuff, and clothes at Mayan Families</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/81.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/81.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Morning walk and self portrait. I was trying to get the lake in there, but my lens isn&#8217;t wide enough</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/111.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/111.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Lake at sunset</div>
<p><!--StartFragment-->
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">One of my favorite things about Guatemala is that you can travel four or so hours and feel like you’re in a different country (mostly aesthetically, but also in a cultural sense). Having been in or around the house for the past couple weeks, I was feeling kind of trapped. The volcanoes that surround our small pueblo are beautiful, but they are so close together that they can sometimes feel captivating. So we took to Lago Atítlan again to do some work and some vacationing. That said, the past 4 days have been nearly perfect and it’s times like these that I understand how foreigners extend their trips until they find themselves permanently living abroad. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Two of the days were for work and the two were for transit/vacation. We left our pueblo at 6am to catch the only public bus to Pana, which leaves around 6:30…or 7:00…or 7:30, depending on which way the wind blows. The ride was surprisingly efficient until we were in sight of the lake, at which time a street parade interfered with our progress—for 2 hours. Ordinarily, you could imagine the air of frustration that might exist among a bus full of passengers sitting in view of their destination, unable to move, and with only 30 minutes left in the journey…but time in Guatemala is regarded differently and we were seemingly the only ones annoyed at the situation. Our neighbors were content watching the parade and were apparently in no rush to get to work or meetings or what have you. When we finally made it to the dock, the lancha driver refused to bargain with us and we had to pay 2.5 times what we had previously paid for the same boat ride. Next we got to sit the boat for 45 minutes waiting for every spot to be filled by the most obnoxious people we’ve yet to encounter. The driver told everyone shut up as he was going to charge the final three passengers extra, and a guy said, “Well, this is the Third World and sometimes we just have to go along with their Third World ways.”…ignorant and offensive, even if the boat drivers were jerks. Initially, I felt sorry for the guys getting ripped off, but within 2 minutes, that empathy was gone. Their arrival and the following conversation went something like this:</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Them: “Sorry guys, the Americans are here…we’ll try not to be too loud.”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Girl: “You’re not the only Americans on the boat.”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Them: “Yeah, but bet you we’ll be the only one’s drinking the whole way.” </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Columbian woman: “Is it legal to smoke and drink on the water?”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Them: “Well this isn’t my country, I’m just on vacation. And anyway, my country is Lebanon and there we can do whatever the fuck we want.” </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Columbian woman: “I’m Columbian, not Guatemala, and I’m also on vacation.”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">**Hostile silence until they got well into the fifth of rum (mind you, it’s before noon and about 25 minutes into the ride). Then they begin talking about previous international vacations and all I could think about was how their charming manners have spread the American reputation across multiple continents.**</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">FINALLY we got to San Pedro and had our first stroke of luck—a hostel that cost under four dollars for a “dorm room” that actually only slept two people…on double beds, and with a locking door! Sold. I expected high prices around the lake because of its more isolated location and attraction to tourists, but since it is hard to get people out there, everything turned out to be really cheap. After exploring, an early dinner, and a rainstorm that caused the streets to flood with ankle deep water in a matter of minutes, we called it a quiet night and hit the sack. I woke up early, went on a walk (the whole city is navigated via footpaths that wind through corn fields, Peter Rabbit’s garden, horse pastures, and other agricultural hideaways, and I ended up sitting lakefront on a boulder, eating a grapefruit. It was perfect. Later, I had lunch (with tofu!), did a little shopping (a big traditional painting by hand!), and headed out for a horseback trail ride. We intended to return to Pana in the early evening to meet with a microfinance group, Mayan Families, but again the lancha options were inconsistent and we opted to stay in San Marcos instead. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">San Marcos is the most beautiful and new-age hippy-ish of all the lakeside villages (home to Los Piramides, where people do yoga/meditation/spirituality retreats for 1-3 months in correspondence with the full moon and lunar eclipse, respectively. Some also take vows of silence and fast for weeks or a month). It’s a cool place, though, and a lot of foreigners run these hippy havens, so there’s a school that educates their children right alongside indigenous kids, which I think is neat. The foreigners pay and the locals go on scholarship, but all learn English, Spanish, and the indigenous tongue. We met a group of cool travelers there and talked well into the night, as there is really nothing else to do there, especially considering the complicated footpaths that have to be navigated in pitch dark in order to get anywhere. Three of the girls had been robbed at gunpoint in Antigua a few days before, so they were in no hurry to go out. A lot of the people I’ve met here have been robbed and none of them were being careless, it’s just something that happens where there are a lot of people with money and a lot of people without any. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">The next day we went to Mayan Families and met the directors, Sharon and her husband, who are great. She is Australian and he’s Californian, but they’ve been living in Guatemala for years and have legally adopted two local children, although they have a collection of unofficial ones as well. The NGO tackles twentysometing social service projects and everything is managed from their house. Even when they’re not home, their kitchen and couches are occupied by busy indigenous women who prepare family style meals for everyone. There are sometimes 31 dogs and a couple cats running around as well. From this description, you might be imagining a huge space, but their house is a a two bedroom place with an adjoined kitchen/living room, and there is only a half-door that separates their “personal” home from the area where they serve meals and distribute whatever donations come in for the families they help. Essentially, there is no privacy and they literally live their business every day, which is something I don’t think I could do, but that I have a lot of respect for.</span><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">  </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">A little about Mayan Families: They give microloans to women, have a spay/neuter animal program, a water filter project, have installed 2,000 ecostoves, are sponsoring 1,110 students to go to school, and do a variety of other important work. I don’t know how they keep everything straight because it all seems chaotic to me, but it’s SO cool. I’ve been there on 3 occasions and it’s always bustling with people who obviously have a lot of love and appreciation for the organization.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">The next day, we came back to do a interviews with clients, but also got swept into distributing shoes, soap, hair care supplies, clothes, and chickens to poor families. At first, it felt like we were intruding on another group’s charity event, but the volunteers were struggling with Spanish, so we were asked to help. The interviews were also really successful and we got more thoughtful responses than previous interviews have yielded. We were also excited to learn that in the future, if MAPLE wants to work through Mayan Families to distribute microloans, that is entirely possible. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">On the nights surrounding our meetings with Mayan Families, we stayed in Santa Cruz, a small place, but maybe the most fun place we’ve been so far. There’s a diving outfit there and I think it’s the second cheapest place in the world to get certified. Lago Atítlan is one of the rare places where it’s possible to dive at altitude without using a dry suit. If I come back, I’m going to work at the hostel where we stayed for two weeks and get scuba certified. La Iguana Perdida has super cheap accommodations, huge family dinners, a nice reading room and book exchange, yoga sessions, and a young and friendly staff…plus its right on the water. We were there for the Saturday BBQ, which involved dress-up clothes, a guitar performance by the owner and his son, and a dance party that lasted into the night. We were also entertained by a nutty older woman who pirouetted nearly everywhere she went, totally sober, and shamelessly hit almost all the guys working there, despite the fact that she easily could have been their mother or grandmother. I met an employee from the other nearby eco-hostel, Isle Verde, and went over for coffee and to read National Geographic one afternoon. There’s a September 2005 article about the secret to staying young, and while dancing and trying to snag younger men is not mentioned, the whole thing is centered on groups of seniors from Japan, Italy, and California who are among the longest-living populations in the world. I think I shall live forever, and if I do, I’ll retire to the lakefront. </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Unfortunately, all good things must come to an end and now it’s back work of the less vacationy type. Its been raining for two days straight so I haven&#8217;t really left the &#8220;couch&#8221; (bench), and have been spending all my time reading a really good book, so I&#8217;ll talk about that in my next post. Also to come&#8230;photos of me in traditional clothes and surrounded by tons and tons of wood (host family&#8217;s request). Don&#8217;t miss it.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Here are a bunch of pictures that makes my time here look like a dream, but my next post will equal it out a little (wood collection and dirt floors, etc.). Stay tuned. </span></p>
<p>  <!--EndFragment-->   </div>
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		<title>Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes</title>
		<link>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/10/ch-ch-ch-ch-changes/</link>
		<comments>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/10/ch-ch-ch-ch-changes/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 10 Aug 2009 20:09:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lauren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel, Central America, Guatemala]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/10/ch-ch-ch-ch-changes</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The past few days have been a refreshing break from my day to day existence here (which is more slow, simple, and remote). This might be kind of long and boring, sorry. We visited a university with a student, Eduardo, and he took us to a class on urbanization. Let me back up and say [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=laurenjow.wordpress.com&amp;blog=10189536&amp;post=30&amp;subd=laurenjow&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><!--StartFragment-->
<p class="MsoNormal">The past few days have been a refreshing break from my day to day existence here (which is more slow, simple, and remote). This might be kind of long and boring, sorry.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">We visited a university with a student, Eduardo, and he took us to a class on urbanization. Let me back up and say that the universities are almost exactly the same as they are in the U.S. in terms of environment. They’re in the capitol, which has a reputation for being dangerous and unpleasant, but the campuses are like bubbles full of young, good looking, and modernly dressed people who actually interact with the opposite sex. The only stand-out difference was the ping pong tables and players that dominated common areas. Anyway, back to the classroom experience. His was a private school, so I figured that the level of instruction would be decent because people have to pay for it (public schools are free), but it was awful. The class was 80 minutes long and the professor spent the first 50 minutes trying to get his laptop and the projector to function simultaneously. Meanwhile, the students were behaving like high schoolers, throwing stuff at each other, etc. After he got the projector working, he proceeded to show a few video clips of sky transportation in Columbia, and I’m pretty sure he taped the videos him self from his cell phone. After that, he took a phone call during class time (as did the guy sitting behind me) and then it was time for the period to end. After, we went to the business office to find out about that program, but the secretary didn’t know anything and everyone else was on their lunch break…which lasts from noon to four o’clock. How nice for them. Since no one could help us, we went to a public university for a concert. It reminded me of Eugene because there were plenty of long flowy dresses, dread locks, cut off pants, and bare footed people juggling and hula hooping. Oh yeah, there are also fixie kids in Guatemala, so weird to find people in these type of clothes, when a woman I live with wears the traditional ropa! Being with Eduardo and his friends was refreshing because they are all our age, forward thinking, bilingual, and funny. Most of our interactions have been with older or younger people from low to middle classes in rural areas, and many such people are superstitious, religious, and a little old-fashioned. I enjoy learning from and spending time with them, but it was a nice break to experience young, urban, city culture.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">A different day, some of our lawyer friends invited us to a conference on environmental and water rights. I considered titling this entry “Real Housewives of Guatemala,” because these ladies were so fancy, but I decided against it because real housewives of Guatemala probably have eight kids, live in a shack, and have husbands who grow corn or haul wood for a living…plus all the women I met were extremely nice and well mannered. They just had big hair, big jewelry, and colorful clothes that reminded me of the Bravo show. Moving on, the conference was at a hotel in Antigua; the conference room was intimate, dimly lit, and had a table set with water pitchers, stemmed drinking glasses, and individual packets of information and colorful brochures/favors. The seven attendees were all very well dressed, more or less bilingual, and each had a laptop. Interestingly, they were also very pale-skinned, as are a lot of successful people here, I’ve noticed. The discussion itself was kind of long-winded and dry (in large part due to the fact that I only understood about 1/3 of it and spent most of the time trying to glance slyly at the outline my neighbor was writing in Spanish so that I could translate it into English), but it was alright and I got to see how professionals interact. The director of BIC…yes, the pen and office supply company…for all of Central America and the Carribean sat across from me. I have still don’t know what BIC has to do with environmental law or water rights, but I got the feeling that he was kind of a big deal, plus he gave me some cool swag, so he got my approval. At around 11am, we took a coffee break and the waiter also gave me a plate of fruit and pita bread filled with something delicious. Coffee and lunch were both on the agenda and I thought maybe we were killing two birds with one stone, but I was mistaken. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">Two hours later, it was time for almuerzo, but not just any almuerzo…this was a four course affair that started with the passing of a platter of hot hand towels and that required no fewer than 8 plates, 4 glasses, and a ton of silverware for each person. It was easily among the top three most formal meals I’ve ever had. Parents, thank you for teaching me table manners! I so glad that it wasn’t my first time sitting down to a meal of such formality. Even still, it was one of those situations where you wait and watch to see how the grown ups approach the dishes before attempting to do so yourself. For example, when your appetizer is artfully served in a spoon, do you use the spoon to eat it, or do you use the outermost fork? And do you consume all the elements at once, or each separately? We also had four drinks: water (With ice, my lucky day! It’s usually only included in mixed drinks, and living with an Evangelical Christian family, those come few and far between. I’ve been missing ice.), rosa de Jamaica juice, rum (Is this a typical lthing?), and coffee (Despite being Guatemala’s main export, most people drink instant or weak coffee because they send out all the quality stuff, so the real coffee was extra good). The rum and chimerones (fried pork skin, which was chopped up in my salad and completely unavoidable) were a little hard to get down while maintaining a pleasant expression, but I prevailed and all the other food was awesome.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">It was a nice change from soggy corn flakes swimming in hot powdered milk and mountains of sugar.</p>
<p>  <!--EndFragment--></p>
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		<title>Ramblings</title>
		<link>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/04/ramblings/</link>
		<comments>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/08/04/ramblings/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Aug 2009 15:37:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lauren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel, Central America, Guatemala]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Here are some pictures unrelated to the post.  Grandpa&#8217;s birthday. Photo shoot with cousins. Going to work at the lake. Cousins playing monkey in the middle. Working the stove presentation. Hand-washing laundry, which has to be my least favorite chore ever. The sinks are so poorly designed that it takes like three hours because you [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=laurenjow.wordpress.com&amp;blog=10189536&amp;post=29&amp;subd=laurenjow&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div style="text-align:center;">Here are some pictures unrelated to the post. </div>
<div style="text-align:center;"></div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/9.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/9.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,238);">
<div style="text-align:center;">
<div style="text-align:center;text-decoration:underline;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);">Grandpa&#8217;s birthday.</span></div>
<p><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);"><br /></span></div>
<p></span><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/10.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/10.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Photo shoot with cousins.</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/8.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/8.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Going to work at the lake.</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/71.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/71.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Cousins playing monkey in the middle.</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/5.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/5.jpg?w=200" border="0" alt="" /></a>
<div style="text-align:center;">Working the stove presentation.</div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/3.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/3.jpg?w=190" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/2.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/2.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/1.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/1.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a></div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:center;">Hand-washing laundry, which has to be my least favorite chore ever. The sinks are so poorly designed that it takes like three hours because you have to rinse soap out a cup of water at a time, rather than being able to hold it under the nozzle. Also, the scrubbing surface isn&#8217;t slanted, so all the dirt just floats around instead of draining.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">And now the real post. Long, but should be decently entertaining. First things first, Friday marked by halfway point! We also made some work progress after a 4 hour meeting with an NGO. Good stuff all around.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Now, some questions and observations I’ve gathered. But first, a disclaimer: Despite the fact that some of my blog entries (particularly this one) include and discomforts and sarcasm, the majority of my time here has been great and I don’t want it to be discredited. At the same time, most of the trials and tribulations have been interesting/comical enough to record. So, without further ado:<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">1)</span><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">   There are more albino people here than anywhere else I&#8217;ve ever been.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">2)</span><span style="font:normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">    </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Is there a high rate of diabetes in Guatemala? <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">My brother shovels mountains of sugar onto his pancakes until they are all </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">white on the surface and you can hear the crystals grinding when he chews.</span></span></span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">3)</span><span style="font:normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">    </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">What is being blown up by all the bombas (explosions) that happen spontaneously and frequently at all hours of the day and night?<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">4)</span><span style="font:normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">    </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Why does a guy with a rifle occasionally stand in our doorway?<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">5)</span><span style="font:normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">    </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">How much longer until we can eat the rooster? The last one reached a level of obnoxiousness that it qualified for food. This one has to be getting close.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">6)</span><span style="font:normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">    </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Why does the church blast The Sound of Silence (oh, the irony) repeatedly in Spanish starting 5am? And why does the bell sound like a child banging on pots and pans? And why does it happen at times that aren&#8217;t on the hour or the half our?<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">7)</span><span style="font:normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">    </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">Why does the packaging on Coco Mallows (coconut covered marshmallows) say that they are natural and nutritious? I guess if the vegetable oil bottle says its good for the heart, nothing can be trusted.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">8)</span><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">   </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">The Ferreteria does not sell ferrets.<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">9)</span><span style="font:normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">    </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">I have a flyer from a travel agency. It has two columns listing costs and locations. Column titles? 1: “Price.” II: “Destiny.” I think they meant “Destination” but maybe not? I’d like to write an entire entry on wordplay. </span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">10)</span><span style="font:normal normal normal 7pt/normal 'Times New Roman';"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"> </span></span><span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"> </span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">What is this? (And so many other questions&#8230;)</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></p>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/61.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/08/61.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,238);text-decoration:underline;"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></span></div>
<div>11) Most importantly, WHY IS THERE NO MATTRESS ON MY BED?</div>
<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">This question is at the bane of my existence. It’s 4:16 am and I’m word processing a blog on a grass mat on the concrete floor. I’d sleep here except that it’s cold. That might give you an idea of how comfortable the bed is (it might also account for the sarcastic tone of this entry). But seriously, it slopes horizontally, I can feel the board that runs down the middle of it for support, and I can hear and feel every spring contract. Before I got here, the grandma came in, sat on it, and told Sneha that she hoped she wasn’t sleeping on it. I have fixed it a little by folding every blanket I was given into a narrow rectangle and piling them on top of each other in an effort at more padding, but it&#8217;s only marginally better. There is an extra room with a bigger and better bed in it, but that’s where the crying prayers happen so it’s off limits. And maybe I sound a little like the Princess and the Pea, but she had like 20 mattresses and I have none.</span></span></div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">In other news, I learned how to make tamales and ceviche. The family makes upwards of 50 tamales every Saturday and sells them from their front door. Ceviche was just a project to keep us busy; my 16 year old cousin and my 12 year old brother caught a bus half and hour into town, found the ingredients for 10 people (including choosing the fish/crab), then came back and taught us how to make it. I was impressed by the efficiency of two barely teenage boys, as I’m pretty sure most of the 20-year-old ones I know wouldn’t know how to get all of that done without detailed written directions.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">I also took a couple of the kids to a permanent carnival/fair type of thing. In essence, I got my Alameda County Fair fix because this one was about the same as any mid-state fair in the U.S.: country folk wearing clothes too tight and with too many grubby kids, teen moms, creepy old men without children who really have no reason to be at a carnival, precarious-looking rides, tons of fried food, and a lot of make-out tweens. A night full of class, and to top it off, the world’s slowest chicken bus back home, sitting by a guy who was so drunk that I’m surprised he managed to find the right camioneta. By some miracle, he managed not to hurl, but he did cause a fair amount of commotion rapping on the metal walls, trying to punch, strangle, and hug his brother, slurring and babbling nonsensical things in Spanish, and then yelling out, “Such a bitch! Such an ass!” in clear English. Never a dull moment in transit.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">And this entry wouldn’t be complete without news that I got sick AGAIN! So uncomfortable. It’s been exactly a month since the first time, weird. Que mal suerte. Luckily, the family doesn&#8217;t have to feel guilty because I think it was something I ate at their friend&#8217;s memorial service. It was at the house of a while lady and everything was pretty fancy by Guatemalan standards, so I thought the cantaloupe would be safe, but nope.</span></p>
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		<title>BIrthdays and boats</title>
		<link>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/07/31/birthdays-and-boats/</link>
		<comments>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/07/31/birthdays-and-boats/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 31 Jul 2009 17:43:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lauren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel, Central America, Guatemala]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/07/31/birthdays-and-boats</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have some great pictures but the internet is too slow! Tomorrow there&#8217;s a music festival in Antigua, so maybe I can get them done there.  Yesterday was the 73rd birthday of my host grandfather. I like him a lot because he&#8217;s always giggling to himself about little things and has a really cheerful personality. [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=laurenjow.wordpress.com&amp;blog=10189536&amp;post=28&amp;subd=laurenjow&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>
<div>I have some great pictures but the internet is too slow! Tomorrow there&#8217;s a music festival in Antigua, so maybe I can get them done there. </div>
<div></div>
<div>Yesterday was the 73rd birthday of my host grandfather. I like him a lot because he&#8217;s always giggling to himself about little things and has a really cheerful personality. He still rides his bike to work every day! The grandma is also nice, but she is exhausting in her mission to feed us. &#8220;Crema&#8221; is cream that looks like mayonnaise and they put it on eggs, beans, plantains, and pretty much everything else. It has no flavor, and no matter how many times we ask for it to be left off, she insists on giving us tons. I also asked for coffee without sugar last night and she literally gasped, then said &#8220;No AZUCAR!?!?&#8221; in her high-pitched voice before interrogating every other adult in the house as to why we don&#8217;t like 5 spoonfulls of sugar in our coffee (and cereal). And, regardless of how many times the aunts tell her I don&#8217;t eat meat, she always gives me chicken because apparently that doesn&#8217;t qualify <img src='http://s0.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </div>
<div></div>
<div>After the celebration, Sneha and I hung out with the cousins. When I think about it, I spend an extraordinary amount of time hanging out with 4-16 year olds. Yesterday, they were really into taking pictures and dancing, which was really entertaining because it was their first time doing one of the stupid photo shoots that kids in the US do all the time when they&#8217;re bored. The whole family is easily amused, and anything a 6 year old would think is funny works for their humor, which is great for us and our limited vocabulary. </div>
<div></div>
<div>In sad news, the best friend of a girl in the family, as well as the friend of the mom, and MT&#8217;s puppy Max all died recently. Death seems to be a lot more common here, but people also seem to get past it more quickly and with a lot of resilience. After funerals, everyone celebrates and is happy. </div>
<div></div>
</div>
<p>In terms of work, this week has been frustrating because it&#8217;s consisted of a bunch of missed connections that have been beyond our control. We planned the whole thing out, but our contacts kept changing their plans, interrupt ours, and everything happens at the last minute so we can&#8217;t really do anything productive on our lost days. 
<div></div>
<div>However, we did go to Lake Atítlan with MT yesterday to deliver an ecostove to a group of indigenous women. Last time I was at the lake, I wasn&#8217;t that impressed, but must not have been looking in the right places because it is AMAZING. I could easily spend a week there. Anyways, we loaded the stove onto a boat and took it across the lake and up a narrow path that opened up into a yard full of 18 indigenous women and about 46 babies (none were crying!). The yard was set up to be a community cooking area and everyone was eating together there. After they ate and we assembled the stove, we got to interview four of the women. Interestingly, of all the people we&#8217;ve spoken with so far, they are the only ones successfully running a small business without too much competition. It was also interesting because they spoke a different dialect that sounded a lot like Arabic. Most people here don&#8217;t look twice at me because I&#8217;m almost as dark as the natives, so I blend in pretty well, but the kids were looking at me like I was an alien. It was a little sad to be around them because a lot of them were sick. The kids have a school and it&#8217;s free, but most of them work instead. Also, unlike the Ugandan babies Emily I&#8217;ve seen in Emily&#8217;s blog, none of these ones smile, even when you acknowledge them. </div>
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		<title>Photos out of order</title>
		<link>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/07/29/photos-out-of-order/</link>
		<comments>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/07/29/photos-out-of-order/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 29 Jul 2009 17:10:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lauren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel, Central America, Guatemala]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/07/29/photos-out-of-order</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[in front of a floating gas station&#8230;hmm Showing the kids iPhoto Livingston Beautiful little girl trying to sell us crabs during the boat ride to Livingston The rodeo<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=laurenjow.wordpress.com&amp;blog=10189536&amp;post=27&amp;subd=laurenjow&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
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<div style="text-align:center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,238);text-decoration:underline;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:small;">in front of a floating gas station&#8230;hmm</span></span></div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/p1000138.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/p1000138.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /><br /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align:center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,238);text-decoration:underline;">Showing the kids iPhoto</span></div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/img_9901.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/img_9901.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /><br /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align:center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,238);text-decoration:underline;">Livingston</span></div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/img_9887.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/img_9887.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /><br /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align:center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,238);text-decoration:underline;">Beautiful little girl trying to sell us crabs during the boat ride to Livingston</span></div>
<p><a href="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/dscn9200.jpg"><img src="http://laurenjow.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/dscn9200.jpg?w=300" border="0" alt="" /><br /></a></div>
<div style="text-align:center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:rgb(0,0,238);text-decoration:underline;">The rodeo<br /></span></div>
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		<title>Weekend Update</title>
		<link>http://laurenjow.wordpress.com/2009/07/28/weekend-update/</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 28 Jul 2009 16:43:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Lauren</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Travel, Central America, Guatemala]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[We are back from Livingston! It was a good trip. The city was similar to how you might picture a Carribean town, with leafy rooftops, patched huts, lots of bamboo, houses on stilts in the water, coconut drinks, braided hair, and island-y jewelry, except that it wasn’t clean or as nice as your mental image [...]<img alt="" border="0" src="http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=laurenjow.wordpress.com&amp;blog=10189536&amp;post=26&amp;subd=laurenjow&amp;ref=&amp;feed=1" width="1" height="1" />]]></description>
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<p class="MsoNormal">We are back from Livingston! It was a good trip. The city was similar to how you might picture a Carribean town, with leafy rooftops, patched huts, lots of bamboo, houses on stilts in the water, coconut drinks, braided hair, and island-y jewelry, except that it wasn’t clean or as nice as your mental image (add a post-Katrina New Orleans element to whatever you’re invisioning), and almost everyone is still Spanish-speaking. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">We stayed in a fun hostel run by a bunch of the tallest and loudest English and Scottish boys I’ve ever met (plus one guy from Pleasanton who graduated from Amador the same year as me, small world). One was like a 20-year-old super-human: tall, dark hair, tan, university rugby player, certified skipper, Swine Flu survivor, and med student. I would have guessed he was at least 26…he was like a real-life One Tree Hill character or maybe Clark Kent. Apparently we were there during a quiet weekend, and we were more of spectators rather than participants in the the fiesta, but I can only imagine what a loud night is like. The guys were kind of crude, but generally hilarious…and they conveniently ignored several charges that should have been on our tab, which was nice. We met a lot of other cool travelers at the hostel, too. Among the group were a screenwriter and his girlfriend, who looked kind of like Tarzan’s sister, but pretty, and a contracted National Geographic/Newsweek photographer! He was from Poland, had a Master’s in biotechnology, and graduated from the best schools in Poland and England, but he said it was boring and traded everything for a career in travel photography. He was just biding time in Livingston, waiting for a new camera to arrive because his broke when the bridge he was standing on gave way, dropping photographer and camera into the water below.</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Our big outing was to Siete Altares, which is a series of freshwater waterfalls that leads into the ocean. We took a cab most of the way there, then walked a short distance to the pools. Walking the whole way is supposed to be really cool, but it is currently unsafe for tourists. Once we got to the entrance, a Garífuna man who lived nearby accompanied us on the hike up to the biggest fall. At the 7<sup>th</sup> Alter, we could jump off a waterfall and swim around in the pool below it. The first Tarzan was filmed around the area. I have some cool pictures of the place, but I left the camera cord for them at home, so they&#8217;ll have to wait.</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Another thing Livingston has going for it is its cuisine. We ate at the hostel a couple times because it was cheap, but on our last night, we tried a Garífuna dish called Tapado, which is a stew/soup made with coconut milk, plantains, a few veggies, and a variety of seafood. Once I removed the faces and extremities of the seafood ingredients, it was delicious. Maybe I’ll try to make it sometime. I also had chips made from plantains that were surprisingly good. I wouldn’t have guessed that a salty dried/fried banana would taste nice.</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">In all this weekend, we took 4 chicken buses, 1 shuttle, 2 nice buses, 3 launcha collectivas (public speed boats), and a 2 taxis. We had to change methods of transportation in SAAC, Antigua, Guatemala City, Rio Dulce, Livingston, and Puerto Barrios. I felt accomplished knowing how to do all of that, but it was annoying when people wouldn’t tell us where certain terminals were (in an effort to force us to use their services), and it was kind of gross to walk through Puerto Barrios (where there is nothing cool and probably a lot of drug trafficking). Oh yeah, last night our aunt&#8217;s bus was robbed on her way home from school. This is pretty common, especially because it&#8217;s near the end of the month, but luckily they are usually nonviolent. When you travel, you keep your money stashed in your clothes, apart from inside pockets. Sadly, two women lost their incomes for the entire month, which is probably devastating, as it would to a lot of families in most places of the world. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">
<p class="MsoNormal">I look and feel disgusting right now because the water isn’t working at the house and I haven’t had a chance to clean up from the trip yet. Livingston was super humid and hot, with plenty of bugs and dirt…all of which I’m probably sleeping with tonight, mm mmm mmmm. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">As for work, tomorrow we leave for Quiche with MT. It&#8217;s about 5 hours away in the highlands. He has a stove demonstration and we are tagging along to help and to do more research. We&#8217;ll be back on Friday afternoon in time to meet with a group of 31 women who are part of a microloan group in SAAC/Santiago. We also got an email from As Green As It Gets and they want to talk with us more, which is exciting. </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I tried to upload more photos, but I&#8217;ve been waiting for an hour so I guess I&#8217;ll save them for later. </p>
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